Every Monday morning, one short letter from Mumbai. Where to actually drink in Bandra. The new restaurant in Khar. The Rishikesh ashram worth flying for. The wedding everyone's whispering about. The kind of thing you'd only hear over drinks — written for the global Indian who hasn't lived back in years.
👉 Subscribe — free →Three snippets from recent editions — bars, tables, hidden places.
Tucked off a dirt road in Benaulim, Mum's Kitchen Goa is the kind of place that doesn't need Instagram. Third-generation Goan recipes — prawn balchão, stuffed crab, bebinca — served on a terrace looking out onto paddy fields. No DJ. No cocktail menu. Just the food your Goan grandmother would have cooked if she were a genius.
The Kala Ghoda to Colaba stretch is Mumbai's best shopping — none of it aimed at tourists. Nappa Dori does beautiful Indian-made leather goods people ask about for years. Good Earth has the finest Indian home textiles in the country. And Chor Bazaar on a Friday morning is still Asia's best flea market.
Parmarth Niketan runs the largest ashram on the banks of the Ganges. Morning yoga at 6am on the ghats as the mist clears off the river. The evening Ganga Aarti is the real thing — not a tourist performance but a daily ritual that has been running for decades. Hundreds of oil lamps floating on the Ganges as the priests chant.
18 topic areas — curated rounups (Top Tables, Top Bars, Top Treks, Reading List…), broad guides, plus the weekly newsletter.